Thursday, 4 June 2009

7. St Stephen Walbrook


Lovely day, not too much on, took the tube down to Bank, emerged right by St Stephen. Then spent 15 minutes walking round it, trying to find an interesting angle. It's not a beautiful church from the outside - looks very unprepossessing with a plain tower and flank walls that are a mixture of unrelated shapes and materials. There's a Starbucks built inches from the south east corner, a new steel and glass edifice going up behind and the Mansion House dominates the church on the north side. Only the tower can be seen and then only from the north side.
So that's what I drew. Had to sit on the steps of the Nat West, pedestrians stepping on my toes, breathing fumes from the busy road and right in the sun. The sun was so hot that the ink kept drying on the nib which meant drawing was a frustrating experience.
I tried to draw the chaos and confusion that surrounds the ancient building - not sure how successfully.
The church exterior may be uninspiring but the interior is one of Wren's masterpieces. Pevsner says it is one of the 10 most important buildings in the country. Maybe I should include some interiors in this enterprise.
The exterior is as it is because it was completely hemmed in. It was Wren's own parish church and maybe because of this he used it as a test bed for his ideas for St Pauls, particularly the dome. St. Stephen was probably briefly the only church in the country with a dome as St Pauls wasn't finished till much later.
St Stephen's spire was added later - was this Hawksmoor's job again?
Nat West staff came out and smoked nearby. A lady teller professed delight at the drawing. A grandpa stooped with his grand-daughter and they watched for a few minutes.
Two and a quarter hours. Possible sunburn.
Map

Monday, 1 June 2009

6. St. James, Garlickhythe


Had the chance to zip off at lunchtime to do another church and took it slightly hesitantly. No problems though.
Went looking for St James, found it down a narrow street south east of St Pauls. It's one of the old river bank churches in the maze of medieval lanes that led down to the wharves and jetties along the Thames. The garlic that was unloaded here came in with wine from France and St. James is the Vintners Guild church.
Not my favourite Wren church, it sits awkwardly alongside Upper Thames Street, which was driven through the buildings which used to huddle up to St. James. The south wall of the church was shared with other buildings but is now exposed, with a set of mock windows that match those of the north side.
This church was built tall and its large windows led to it being called 'Wren's lantern' The spire was added to the tower by Hawksmoor 30 years after the church was re-opened.
The Luftwaffe's contribution to the story of St. James was to drop a 500lb HE bomb through the roof, which buried itself under the nave. Luckily it didn't explode, or I would have being drawing somewhere else today.
Apparently, St James suffered a bizarre accident in 1991 when a crane fell across the road to demolish the centre of the South front. Luckily, it was possible to repair the damage.
The new road meant that I could get a great view from a coffee shop (probably built in 1991!). So I sat in air-conditioned comfort with the pad on a table. Luxury.
I used the same nib as last time and went for the thick wobbly line that worked so well. I drew the steel and glass wall of the coffee shop, and didn't even think about drawing traffic or people.
Visited by two of the local alkies who, after giving me the thumbs up through the window, came in to discuss art. They professed themselves stunned by the brilliance of the drawing and after I wished them a good day they replied they certainly would, having seen such a great drawing.
Cafe staff left me alone. My only regret - didn't have any cash and the cafe didn't take cards, so couldn't buy a coffee.
Two and a quarter hours total.
Map